We came across a good omen along the way: a road sign featuring Mike's favorite Italian name: "Filomena." He heard it for the first time in the Rick Moranis/Steve Martin movie "My Blue Heaven." The name is actually quite elusive; since arriving in Italy, we have yet to meet a single Filomena. Italians have told us that it is an antiquated name, and thus much more common among grandmothers, and not the young people we tend to hang out with.